December 21, 2021
Where to Go in 2022: How Mérida Became Mexico's LGBTQ Sweet Spot
Matthew Wexler READ TIME: 4 MIN.
This story is part of EDGE's "7 Queer Wonders of the World" series, in which we share our top LGBTQ+ travel picks for 2022.
One of the biggest marketing misconceptions about the LGBTQ+ community is that we all love the same kind of travel experience. In reality, our interests are as colorful as the stripes on a Pride flag. And while Cancun has long attracted tourists for its all-inclusive hotel offerings, Puerto Vallarta for its vibrant nightlife, and Tulum for the archeological wonder of Cichén Itzá, we're officially ranking Mérida as another must-visit Mexico destination.
Mérida – a quick flight or four-hour drive from touristy Cancún – gently expresses itself through personable locals, rich Mayan culture, and a few queer finds if you know where to look.
Mérida is the capital city of the state of Yúcatan, which made headlines earlier this year as Mexico's 22nd state to formally legalize same-sex marriage (and simultaneously ban "conversion therapy"). Strolling through the city center reveals a plethora of colonial architecture and baroque, neo-classical and other periods represented in churches, haciendas and historic sites.
Mérida Through a Local's Eyes
Source: Matthew Wexler
Consider booking a Mérida history walking tour with Eduardo through Airbnb for a terrific snapshot of the centuries-old city and its complicated evolution. Then, indulge in affordable, casual bites at La Lupita Taqueria in Santiago Market, where you can sample regional specialties like Conchinita Pibil (marinated and roasted pork) and Relleno Negro, a sauce of charred chiles and spices typically served with turkey and hard-boiled egg.
Discover beautifully curated goods at Carmesí, where you can find handcrafted home and kitchen items, along with a wide selection of hammocks made from the region's most famous export, sisal (locally referred to as henequen). Chocolate also reigns supreme, and you'll find plenty of variations at the Belgian-Mexican hybrid Ki'Xocolatl. A sunset meal at Picheta, located in a 250-year-old building overlooking Plaza Central, features dishes from a roster of Mexico's notable chefs.
LGBTQ+-Owned and Operated
While not as high-energy as Mexico City, Mérida maintains an LGBTQ+ presence thanks to local business owners and an evolving community that's finding harmony between the city's religious history and a generation of queer business owners.
Self-described "queer dyke" Emma Molin opened Cadadía bar and café in June 2021 as a venue that celebrates queer culture, art, music and community. Craft cocktails and modern bites set the stage for a revolving roster of events. "The pace of life is really lovely here," says Molin. "People value family time; they're just super happy and playful."
That vibe permeates her corner café, with a cross breeze gently blowing through its open doors and billowing curtains. "I really wanted to get queer women in here," says Molin of her varied programming, recognizing that a shift in Mérida is underway. "Having a safe space means a lot to people – it means a lot to me."
For an LGBTQ+-owned stay, consider the gay-owned Ochenta y Dos, an urban bed & breakfast that sports an outdoor pool, sprawling rooftop lounge and bar area, and cozy nooks to curl up with a good book, such as co-owner Dave O. Dodge's latest title, "The Seasons of Grace: The Unauthorized Backstory of Peyton Place." Dodge is also a terrific tour guide and facilitates day trips to cenotes, archeological sites and other unique discoveries throughout Yúcatan.
Day Tripping
Source: Matthew Wexler
Mérida is not only charming but also conveniently located for day-trip adventures. Head to Uxmal to experience a newly launched nighttime video mapping experience that tells the myth of Enano de Uxmal (brush up on your Spanish or hire a guide/translator for the full experience). For fewer frills and crowds, //www.inah.gob.mx/zonas/55-yucatan/8860-zona-arqueologica-xcambo| archeological zone, situated on marshlands near the Gulf of Mexico.
Returning from Xcambó, stop for a few hours (or the night!) at Kokomo Beach Club or venture to the port town of Progreso for a boardwalk stroll and a michelada.
The Takeaway
Mérida's iconic Paseo de Montejo gives way to quiet side streets where you're likely to find an unassuming café or locally-owned shop. Consistently named one of the safest cities in Mexico, Mérida's history and reinvention are ideal for the queer traveler looking for the road less taken.
Matthew Wexler is EDGE's Senior Editor, Features & Branded Content. More of his writing can be found at www.wexlerwrites.com. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @wexlerwrites.
