Western Ireland: More, Moher, Moor - How Do You Like It?

READ TIME: 7 MIN.

It's almost impossible not to be overcome with a sense of deja vu when visiting some of Ireland's many tourist destinations. And there's good reason for that.

For as much as the city of Dublin provides devotees of the country's rich literary tradition with the opportunity to walk in the footsteps of their favorite authors and characters, the dramatic landscape on the island's west coast offers equally as much for movie buffs eager to experience some of their favorite iconic film locations firsthand.

The island of Skellig Michael, located off the southwest coast, provided the locale for Luke Skywalker's isolated refuge in the final scene of "Star Wars: The Force Awakens." The island, which was once the home of a sixth-century monastery, is one of Ireland's most difficult attractions to visit. Thanks to the film, it is now also one of the country's most sought-after tourist destinations.

FROM 'THE CLIFFS OF INSANITY' TO A SERENE BIKE RIDE ALONG THE COAST

About 100 miles north of Skellig Michael is the equally stunning yet infinitely easier to visit Cliffs of Moher. Situated in County Clare, the cliffs span several miles and rise to as high as 700 feet from the surf. Standing on top of the cliffs, feeling the wind propel spray from the Atlantic hundreds of feet up the precipice, it's almost impossible not to be overcome with wonder at this marvel of geotourism.

The cliffs have long captured the imagination of many a filmmaker who have taken full advantage of its dramatic landscape to provide the backdrop for some of the most iconic films, television shows and music videos in memory. Maroon 5's "Runaway" video was filmed on the cliffs. Daniel Radcliffe ventured into a cave at the base of the cliffs to retrieve a horcrux in "Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince." It is hardly inconceivable that the cliffs provided the inspiration and location for the dreaded "Cliffs of Insanity" in the film "The Princess Bride."

Though its expanse has yet to be immortalized on film, a location scout could easily pitch numerous spots along Ireland's Great Western Greenway to enhance the romance or drama of a movie narrative.

Located two and a half hours up the coast from the Cliffs of Moher in County Mayo, the Great Western Greenway is one of Ireland's newest attractions. Spanning 26 miles of sheep-covered moors with stunning views of the Atlantic, the Great Western Greenway is an off-road trail used for cycling and hiking. The trail, which follows a former railway line, is a perfect way to see the landscape up close and without the distraction of other visitors (only about 300 people visit it daily). No bike? No problem. You can rent a bicycle, have the rental agents drop you off on the Greenway, and return it in the charming town of Newport.

One caveat, however: the Greenway requires a higher-than-average level of fitness. Our tour operator glibly told us while dropping us off that our ride would be only five or so miles and downhill most of the way. By my fourth hill on what felt like mile eight, I realized that this was yet another grand piece of Irish fiction.

LIVE LIKE A KING

While our stay to Dublin took us to the brewery and storehouses where the Guinness family made their fortune, our trip to the west led us to one of the places where they spent their gold.

Originally built in the 13th century and further expanded in the 1700s, Ashford Castle was once home to philanthropist and brewer Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness. Purchased in 1852, the property remained in the Guinness family until the early 20th century, when it was turned into a world-class hotel. It has since played host to royals, heads of state and an array of entertainment A-listers, including Princess Grace, Oscar Wilde, Brad Pitt and half of the Beatles. In 2013, it became part of the Red Carnation Hotel collection and received an inside-out, top-to-bottom refurbishment.

Entering the stone gate to the scenic drive through the estate's golf course, then over the bridge that spans the moat encircling this stone behemoth of hospitality, it's difficult not to be awestruck. Once inside Ashford, it's nearly impossible not to use superlatives to describe the level of service, comfort and amenities offered.

There are 68 guest rooms and 14 luxury suites at Ashford Castle, and no two are alike. My room featured an ornate wood fireplace with marble hearth and a huge canopy bed that led me to ponder who of the dignitaries and celebrities may have occupied it before me. The white marble bathroom, with its heated floor and towel rack, offered every modern convenience while maintaining the classic, timeless aesthetic of castle.

Ashford's 350 acres of grounds offer a wide variety of activities that include boat trips, golf, trap shooting, fishing and even falconry lessons -- all of which keep with the grand estate setting of the property. A one-mile trip down a dark, wooded path on Ashford's grounds leads to the neighboring village of Cong, which provided the location for the 1951 John Wayne film "The Quiet Man." While Cong is as far from a bustling metropolis as you're likely to find, visitors will surely stumble on a pub or two.

Guests will have almost as much fun exploring the inside of the castle as they have experiencing the grounds outside. It's the archaic features that possess the most charm. The antique-festooned Connaught Room hosts afternoon tea daily, complete with finger sandwiches, scones and local jam. On the way to tea, be sure to take a seat by the fire in the castle's giant ornately paneled inglenook. A billiards room provides the perfect opportunity to grab late-night drinks while meeting other international guests of the hotel. An adjoining cigar terrace is the best place to enjoy a drink or smoke while leaning on a centuries-old parapet and gazing up at the stars.

Food options at Ashford are excellent and range from casual fare in the Dungeon to the more formal (jackets and ties required) George V Dining Room. Built in honor of the Prince of Wales' visit to Ashford in 1906, the room features warm wood paneling and is lit by rows of ornate Waterford Crystal chandeliers. I ordered the four-course prix fixe that included a rich sampling of venison and game. The bowl of Mrs. Tollman's Billi Bi Mussel Soup was particularly memorable. For guests with deep pockets, a full tasting menu with additional wine pairings is also available. The service, which is impeccable at every level and comprises mostly locals from neighboring towns, also strikes an unusual, delicate balance between formal and friendly.

LOOK TO THE RAINBOW

Leaving Ireland from the west coast, it's best to book your flight out of Shannon Airport in County Clare. The 90-mile trip from Ashford Castle will take you through the rolling green hills that give the country its "Emerald Isle" moniker. On the morning of our trip to Shannon, we experienced typical Irish weather: it rained.

There's a well-worn joke that more than rings true: take a look up at the usual overcast sky and say, "Another sunny day in Ireland." Driving to Shannon, I thumbed through a copy of the Irish Independent newspaper, which featured an article on the first legal same-sex wedding in the country that took place during my stay. As I read about the landmark nuptials, the rain subsided and the sun broke through the clouds. Where there is rain, often there are rainbows -- and we saw plenty in Ireland during our weeklong stay. On our way home, we encountered a rare triple rainbow. For a country rich in poetry, this metaphor was not lost.

For more information about traveling to Ireland, visit:
Discover Ireland
Brendan Vacations


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