Santa Fe: Express Yourself in The Land of Enchantment

Does a town need a gay bar to be a gay-worthy destination? Not if you ask the folks in Santa Fe. The Blue Rooster, the only gay bar in this Northern New Mexican enclave of 82,000, closed last fall. Don't count on a gayborhood either, says Santa Fe's Mayor "McDreamy," Javier Gonzales, who famously came out in a 2013 op-ed piece just before announcing his candidacy. Santa Fe's far too progressive to need a gay ghetto. Because in this posh paradise, where you just might find yourself rubbing elbows with residents like Tom Ford and Robert Redford, everyone's welcome to join in the good times.

"Where's the gay neighborhood?" Gonzales asks rhetorically. "Everywhere! I can walk in anywhere with anyone I'm dating and feel comfortable. That's what's really special about Santa Fe. It encourages everyone to be themselves."

Painting the Town

For culture aficionados Santa Fe has been a longtime magnet, graced by glorious Spanish Pueblo architecture that blends the styles of the Europeans who founded the city four centuries ago and the indigenous people who first called it home.

And with more professional artists per capita than anywhere else in the U.S., Santa Fe offers not just a wealth of museums, such as the Georgia O'Keeffe, dedicated to the city's first lady of the canvas. Canyon Road, celebrated around the world as the Rodeo Drive of art, is lined with some 80 galleries offering everything from Native American to traditional pieces. Meanwhile, the Santa Fe Opera, celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, produces new works and classic favorites in a stunning outdoor amphitheater with sweeping views of the surrounding mountains.

Sunny Peaks and Valleys

Those peaks are for more than peering at. Boasting 325 days of sunshine annually, virtually no mosquitos and negligible humidity, Santa Fe rocks outdoor adventure hard. "There are 300 miles of bike trails in the city," notes Gonzales. "You can rock climb 10 minutes outside of Santa Fe. And there are tons of trails in the mountains. There's something special about them... it has to be experienced. You can walk where the indigenous community hunted more than 400 years ago, and it hasn't changed all that much. Our outdoors has the ability to connect with your soul."

To immerse yourself in Santa Fe's spectacular outback, hit up Santa Fe Walkabouts. Their guides will take you hiking and biking up the mountains and down the canyons. Or let a four-legged friend do the work and go horseback riding with Bishop's Lodge through the rugged foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. The iconic resort is undergoing a massive renovation but the property's stables, where chap-wearing cowboys will get you saddled up and into the wild, remain open.

Chile Today, Hot Tamale

After a day spent playing in Santa Fe's crystal-clear mountain air, refuel at Tomasita's, a family-owned restaurant that's been dishing the city's best New Mexican food for four decades. Their chile sauce - served red, green or "Christmas" and served on everything from enchiladas to Huevos Rancheros - just might make you consider becoming a resident. Green chile (chunky and spicy) is made from chiles that have been roasted and peeled before ripening. Red chile is made from sun-ripened, dried chiles that have been ground to powder, then rehydrated and pureeed into a smooth sauce. In either case, it's a must-try in New Mexico.

Want to learn how to make it or other regional dishes? Take a class at the Santa Fe School of Cooking with Michelle Chavez, a member of the LGBT community as piquant as the local fare. For dessert, venture over to gay-owned CG Higgins Confections for mouth-watering hand-made chocolates like the zesty New Mexico Chile truffle.

One of the city's best nightcaps can be had at Santa Fe Spirits Downtown Tasting Room, a cozy space pouring the artisan distillery's superb hootch. If you're in the mood to dance, Gonzales recommends Skylight, the occasional home of drag diva Bella Gigante. "What's really magical is going up to the bell tower at La Fonda and getting yourself a margarita at sunset," Gonzales adds. "The colors of the subalpine environment become blended and it's beautiful."

Desert Dreams

While La Fonda on the Plaza, which dates back four centuries, is Santa Fe's most storied fine hotel, Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado might be its most luxurious. Sitting on 57 acres just 10 minutes from town, it tempts with goodies like adventure outings to nearby Bandelier National Monument and the eatery Terra, led by James Beard-nominated chef Andrew Cooper.

But no matter where you wander in Santa Fe, know that you can let it all happily hang out. "You don't have to conform," says Gonzales, "to be a part of this community." Heck, even the chiles co-mingle.